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Chef Aom Sujira Pongmorn On How KHAAN is Honouring Tradition While Pushing Culinary Boundaries | Interview
- Lola Carron
- Apr 4
- 5 min read
BANGKOK
Images courtesy of KHAAN.
When it comes to redefining Thai fine dining, few restaurants are making as much of an impact as KHAAN. At the heart of KHAAN’s philosophy is Chef Aom Sujira Pongmorn, whose passion for storytelling is woven into every dish on the restaurant’s 11-course tasting menu. Sourcing ingredients directly from small-scale farmers and artisans across Thailand, KHAAN creates a deeply personal and regionally inspired dining experience. From the rich, smoky flavours of Grilled Paddy Rice Field Crab to the delicate balance of Tôm Khà Oyster, each plate reflects a journey – one that bridges heritage and innovation. In this exclusive interview, we speak with Chef Aom Sujira Pongmorn about her inspirations, sustainability efforts, and vision for the future of Thai cuisine.
KHAAN has been described as pushing the boundaries of Thai fine dining. What’s the
philosophy behind your approach to modern Thai cuisine?
My philosophy is about honouring Thai culinary traditions while reinterpreting them in a refined, modern context. Every dish on our 11-course menu tells a story. It’s inspired by my personal experiences, a specific province in Thailand, sourced directly from small-scale farmers and artisans. By combining time-honoured techniques with contemporary presentations, I want to showcase Thai cuisine’s depth and complexity in a way that surprises and delight diners.
Can you share the inspiration behind one of your signature dishes at KHAAN?
One of my signature dishes at KHAAN is the Grilled Paddy Rice Field crab, inspired by a chance encounter with farmers while searching for quality rice. They invited me to try their grilled crab, and I was immediately drawn to its deep , rustic flavours. I wanted to reinterpret it in my own way while preserving its Thai essence. It took many trials to perfect the balance of flavour and technique, but my guiding principle has always been to respect the ingredients and honour its traditional roots.
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Sustainability is a growing focus in the culinary world. How do you incorporate sustainability practices into your kitchen?
Sustainability is a core value at KHAAN. We source ingredients directly from ethical farmers and local producers, ensuring that we support sustainable agriculture and traditional craftsmanship. Our kitchen practices nose to tail and root to stem cooking, minimising waste by utilising every part of an ingredients – whether through fermentation, drying, or creative reapplication. We also collaborate with suppliers who prioritise organic and regenerative farming, and we continuously look for ways to reduce our carbon footprint while maintaining the highest quality.
Where are your top five favourite restaurants in Bangkok right now and why?
HAWWM - For its dedication to Thai heritage and bold flavours.
INDDEE - An innovative Indian cuisine where technique and creativity come together beautifully.
Ailati - A cosy Italian restaurant known for its authentic handmade pasta, excellent wine selection, and charming ambiance in a beautifully preserved heritage house.
Pad Thai Fai Ta Lu @Dinso Road - Their wok-fried Pad Thai with smoky flavours from high heat cooking. These are well executed dishes that are extraordinary.
Côte By Mauro Colagreco - This offers a creative, well-balanced approach to modern French cuisine. After visiting Mirazur in France, I was impressed by their technique and respect for ingredients. Their innovation, rooted in strong technique.
Who are five chefs you look up to and why?
Chef Clare Smyth for her dedication to precision, sustainability and storytelling through food. As the first female chef in the UK to earn three Michelin stars, She redefines modern British cuisine while honouring traditions – something I strive for at KHAAN. Her focus on the finest ingredients and refined technique inspires me to elevate Thai cuisine in a way that respects its roots while pushing creative boundaries.
Chef Hajime Yoneda for his ability to blend French technique with Japanese flavours, creating innovative and beautiful dishes. His focus on nature and meticulous craftsmanship inspires me to push the boundaries of Thai cuisine at Khaan, while still honouring its tradition.
Chef Juan Amador for his innovative approach, blending traditional European technique with modern flair. During my time as a commis chef at The Mandarin Oriental, I had the opportunity to work with his team for promotion at The French restaurant. I was truly impressed by their precision and creativity. I learn a great deal from the experience, which continues to inspire me in elevating Thai cuisine at KHAAN.
Chef Josh Niland for his groundbreaking work in fish butchery, where he emphasises utilising every part of the fish to minimise waste. This aligns with my sustainability concept at KHAAN, where we focus on honouring every ingredient, reducing food waste and highlighting the true essence of Thai cuisine in a responsible, innovative way.
Chef Nadia Caterina Munno, also known as “the Pasta Queen,” for her infectious sense of humour and the joy she exudes while cooking. Her confidence in the kitchen and her ability to make the process look effortless inspire me to embrace the happiness and energy that comes with creating great food. At KHAAN, I aim to bring that same positive energy into our dishes, making each dish not just a meal, but an experience filled with passion and joy.
How do you see Thai cuisine evolving in the next five years?
I see Thai cuisine continuing to embrace hyper-regionality, with more focus on rare ingredients and forgotten recipes from different province. There’s also a growing emphasis on sustainability and ethical sourcing, where restaurants take greater responsibility for their impact. Additionally, I think there will be a shift towards progressive yet respectful interpretations of Thai food. Chef will keep pushing boundaries while staying deeply connected to our culinary roots. Ultimately, Thai cuisine will continue to evolve as one of the world’s most dynamic and exciting food cultures.
If you could cook for anyone, past or present, who would it be and what would you serve?
I would love to cook for my aunt. Because she has been a key influence in my career. She always inspired me with her creativity in the kitchen, making sure nothing went to waste. Growing up, I watched her turn leftovers from big family meal into new dishes. She is my role model in both cooking and sustainability.
I would serve her the food she loves – a creative noodle dish just like she used to make or Thai relish (Nam-Prik) with a variety of vegetables. But now that she’s getting older, she has to be more mindful of what she eats, so I’d adapt the dish to suit her needs while still bringing her joy through flavours she cherishes.
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