Review: Nipponia Hotel Takehara Saltworks Town in Hiroshima Is Where History Comes Alive

HIROSHIMA

CSP Times checks into Nipponia Hotel Takehara Saltworks Town, a unique hotel consisting of three converted historic buildings to convey the charm and history of Takehara. The town once prospered from salt and sake making during the Edo Period.

All images are courtesy of Jianne Soriano | CSP Times

I huff and I puff as I make my way to the former Morikawa Family residence. The historic building now functions as the check-in area and bar lounge of Nipponia Hotel Takehara Saltworks Town. The sun is shining in February, but the cold air provides some comfort. Soon, the building comes into view. It’s easy to spot it despite the similar-looking buildings in the historic town, thanks to its well-preserved traditional architecture. The residence was built against the backdrop of a salt field and showcases the prosperity of the town’s salt industry.

I carefully make my way inside the city-designated Important Cultural Property until a staff member ushers me into the traditional tatami room. I sit down to enjoy some tea and local snacks while the staff pulls out a map to explain the history of Takahara and the three buildings of the hotel. I listen carefully, but also can’t help but be in awe of the stunning courtyard garden visible from the tatami room.

A Historic Location

Nipponia Hotel Takehara Saltworks Town sits in the south-central part of Hiroshima Prefecture in the city of Takehara. It thrived from salt and sake making, and the hotel is located in the heart of the preservation area. While the heyday of the salt industry is long gone, it remains an integral part of Takehara’s history.

The hotel offers a unique opportunity to peek into the history and culture of Takehara through buildings that date back to the Edo period. Today, they stand and operate as inns, restaurants, and shops, retaining much of their original architecture and charm.

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A Charming Accommodation

Like most Nipponia Hotels that consist of separate historic buildings, Takehara Saltworks Town is no different. In addition to the reception, the rooms are housed in a former brewery (KIKKO) and a former bank (MOSO). KIKKO later became a billiards hall and other entertainment facilities before being revived as a lodging. Meanwhile, MOSO became a ryokan (traditional inn) after its run as a bank. In total, the hotel has ten rooms, decorated in two distinct colours: white to symbolise salt and koji mould used for sake making, as well as blue to represent the pristine Seto Island Sea.

My room is inside MOSO, which is just a three-minute walk from the main building. As MOSO comes into view, my eyes immediately fall on the commanding presence of the building’s exterior. It feels as if I’m on the set of a historic drama, or somehow manage to travel back in time. The entrance is spacious, and, as with most traditional buildings, shoes are not allowed to preserve the tatami floors. To go with the old-school vibe, the sliding doors can only be unlocked with a key.

The room is airy and spacious, featuring a bar area, a sitting area, two beds, a separate washroom, a sink, and a bathing area. It’s also generously proportioned, with the detached parlour separated by sliding doors. While traditional features dominate the space, such as tatami and wooden floors, there are also modern amenities to admire, like the basin and a high-tech Japanese toilet. The space is a perfect marriage of contemporary comfort and traditional elegance.

After being in awe of the room, I scan the private garden. It’s a zen space filled with trees and stones, with a stunning view of the Fumeikaku temple on the hillside. Over at the other side is a small yet elegant tea room. While the room is already enough for a quiet retreat, the tea room offers even more of a peaceful time.

A Traditional Dining Experience

Guests are spoiled for choice when it comes to dining. The Takehara Town Preservation District is brimming with restaurants and cafes, offering everything from light meals to hearty dishes. Otherwise, the hotel’s restaurant, HOTEI, serves dinner and breakfast and is just a stone’s throw away from KIKKO and MOSO. Originally built in the Edo period, it functioned as a ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurant) until the 1970s. Its wooden exterior and interior have been preserved, adding timeless charm to the dining experience.

During my stay, the culinary team prepared a Japanese-French menu featuring local ingredients such as Taoshita beef, known for its tender meat and strong flavour. Other dishes are made with Setouchi fish and fresh vegetables, and sake from Fujii Sake Brewery. The famous brewery was founded in 1863 and remains a cornerstone of Takehara’s sake-making industry. Its products are renowned for their clean and well-balanced dry taste. The restaurant is also one of the few places one can try the famous Takehara salt, which is not available to the general public.

Breakfast is just as spectacular. I relish the taste of a traditional Japanese breakfast set, including miso soup, steamed white rice, grilled fish, and a variety of side dishes. It’s the perfect way to start the day.

A Stroll Around Town

A stay at the hotel is not complete without exploring the town. Great craftsmanship and work were put into preserving the traditional buildings as much as possible. The unique feature of the town’s buildings is seen in various latticework, ranging from degoshi (protruding), hiragoshi (flat), and nurigoshi (painted) types. Explore Honmachi (the main street), Oshijo (side streets), and Itayashoji (curving lane), and imagine what it was like in the past and how its bygone days have travelled to the present. In these streets, there are still residents, and locals continue to do business to showcase the charm of Takehara.

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Other unmissable landmarks include the Fumeikaku temple, which offers a bird's eye view of the town; the Takehara Historical Museum, built on the grounds of the former Takehara Shoin (audience hall); and the Former Yoshii Family Residence, the oldest house in town, which dates back to 1691.

Nipponia Hotel Takehara Saltworks Town Tips

• Some of the buildings are closed on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, so plan your trip accordingly.

• The shops, restaurants, and cafes close around 5 to 6 pm, so make sure to visit during opening hours.

• There are tour guides available for 90-120 minute walking tours, and they need to be booked at least two days in advance. However, tour guides only speak Japanese.

• The hotel offers a salt-making experience. Guests can learn how to make salt using traditional methods. At the end, participants will receive 50 grams of handmade salt.

Nipponia Hotel Takehara Saltworks Town

3 Chome-16-33 Central, Takehara, Hiroshima, 725-0026, Japan

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Disclaimer: The writer was invited by Nipponia Hotel Takehara Saltworks Town to experience the property. All observations, assessments, and opinions expressed are based on the writer’s independent experience and professional judgement.