How Julie Liu's Quest for a Modern Qipao Led to the Birth of Qipology in Hong Kong

Faye Bradley
2 hours ago
7 min read

HONG KONG

Julie Liu couldn’t find a qipao that fit her style – or her height – for a friend's wedding, so she decided to create one herself – and Qipology was born.

Tall, poised, and quietly commanding, the qipao has long been a symbol of elegance – and, for many, a little intimidating. Julie Liu knows this better than most. Born in the U.S. but raised in Hong Kong, she moved through the fashion world at Lane Crawford, Dolce & Gabbana, and DFS, learning the art of curation, detail, and luxury. Yet it was a friend’s “Old Shanghai” wedding that revealed a gap she couldn’t ignore: modern, wearable qipaos were surprisingly hard to find.

The solution became Qipology. Liu's designs honour the garment’s iconic mandarin collar and pankou buttons while softening silhouettes, exploring fabrics, and adapting the silhouette for real life. The result is a qipao that women actually want to wear – timeless, elegant, and effortlessly contemporary.

We sat down with Julie Liu to talk qipaos, creativity, and the art of modern tradition.

Q: To start, could you tell us a little about yourself and your background before founding Qipology?

JL: I was born in the US but grew up in Hong Kong. I studied Management Sciences at university, but I have always had a passion for fashion. After graduating, I worked in the buying departments at Lane Crawford, Dolce & Gabbana, and DFS before starting my entrepreneurial journey.

Q: What originally inspired you to start Qipology?

JL: I was invited to a friend’s “Old Shanghai” themed wedding and struggled to find a qipao that was my style, and most importantly, that fit me well (I’m tall!). Eventually, I got a traditional one made in China. My first time getting dressed up in a qipao was also a very memorable experience. With my hair and make-up done, I felt beautiful and elegant as the silhouette of the qipao, and the high mandarin collar forces you to naturally sit and stand straighter than usual. I wanted everyone to experience the feeling I felt.

Q: Was there a particular moment when you realised there was a gap in the market for a brand like this?

JL: The struggle of finding a qipao for my friend’s wedding really inspired me to start a qipao brand. That experience made me realise there was a real gap in the market, even in Hong Kong, where qipaos are considered cultural attire – there were hardly any qipao brands that felt both modern and accessible.

Q: The qipao is such an iconic garment with a deep cultural history. What drew you personally to this silhouette?

JL: I am particularly drawn to the mandarin collar and the pankou buttons as they are such iconic elements of a qipao. Though I love the classic sheath silhouette, as it is feminine without being revealing and shows off a woman’s curves, at Qipology we also try to incorporate other shapes (i.e., A-line, mermaid) so they are more suitable for modern women’s everyday lives.

Q: What gap were you trying to fill when you launched the brand?

To be honest, I didn’t think too much about it initially. I always knew I wanted to start my own business instead of working for someone. I was also not sure whether the business would work or if there would be a market for it, which is why I didn’t quit my job until I felt ready. To lower costs, particularly in stock inventory, Qipology began with a fully made-to-order business model, meaning all pieces were custom-made. It wasn't until COVID that we launched our casual, ready-to-wear line and started carrying ready-to-wear pieces.

Q: Many people associate qipaos with very formal occasions. Was part of your vision to make the dress more wearable for modern women?

JL: I initially started the brand by designing more formal qipaos as well. My first collection was mainly cocktail qipaos in black, dark blue, and white. The idea was for the qipaos to be modern, wearable, and practical – they weren't all slim-fit and didn’t feel restrictive. We use more modern fabrics, laces, and silhouettes so women will not feel “out of place” when wearing a qipao. The business evolved organically, and we gradually began introducing other collections – bridal, casual, menswear, and kidswear.

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Q: Fit is often one of the biggest challenges with qipaos. How does Qipology approach tailoring and design to suit different body types?

JL: Apart from offering tailor-made qipaos, where clients can choose their own fabrics and get the qipao made to their size, we try to introduce qipaos in different silhouettes (ie, A-line, princess cut) – these are great options for clients who do not feel confident in something slim fit and are more forgiving. We also try to incorporate stretchy materials to make it more comfortable. To date, we are still constantly fine-tuning our fit to better cater for our clients.

Bestsellers from left to right: Common Mallow A-Line in Black; Dark Green Hellebores Velvet Qipao; Tang Tweed Jacket White; Tang Reversible Satin Jacket

Q: Which pieces or styles have become your bestsellers, and why do you think they resonate with clients?

JL: From our occasionwear line, our Common Mallow A-line Qipao and Hellebores Velvet Qipaos are our bestsellers. I think it is because they are versatile and easy to wear. They can easily be accessorised to be worn on more than one occasion. Not to mention, the Hellebores Velvet Qipao is very stretchy, and you can eat in it! For our casual pieces, our Tang Jackets in tweed and reversible satin would be our bestsellers. Not only can they be worn on more formal occasions, but they can also be casually styled with a simple white tee and jeans.

Q: Are there any trends in qipao design that you’re noticing this season, whether in colours, patterns, or cuts?

JL: I feel that qipaos are designed to be timeless. We do try to incorporate fashion trends into our designs, but we also hope they are not too “trend-driven” so they can be worn beyond that one season. In general, we are seeing a focus on more versatile and comfortable qipao pieces that are relaxed and suitable for daily wear. Clients particularly like multi-purpose pieces, so if a qipao top and skirt are designed to be worn as a set, they also like that they can be worn separately. In terms of colour, we have been seeing more muted, pastel tones – we have been loving lilac and baby blue for that fresh summer look!

Q: How are younger generations engaging with the qipao differently compared to the past?

JL: I am quite surprised that a lot of younger clients love wearing qipaos! We get clients who wear them for school prom, graduation, Chinese Orchestra recitals, and Cotillion. They are proud of their heritage and want to connect with it in a more international way, as they are also global citizens. They look for iconic elements like the mandarin collar and frog buttons, but will typically choose a less traditional silhouette and style it with their own pieces (e.g., leather jackets, spiked heels) to add their personal touch. We have also been seeing younger clients purchase our Tang jackets and knitted qipao tops for everyday wear. They embrace wearing pieces that represent their heritage.

Q: Weddings seem to be an important part of the qipao market. How has the modern bride influenced the designs you create?

JL: Yes! This accounts for nearly 50% of our business. Our brides are really diverse and may choose to wear qipaos for different parts of the wedding – from the civil ceremony, walking down the aisle, the tea ceremony, to the after-party. Often, our brides choose to custom-make their pieces and incorporate stories into their designs. We have had a client make a tea ceremony qipao with us and asked us to hide sheep embroidery within the flower appliqués, as it represents the couple. She also asked to add an invisible zipper so she can unzip the back and wear it as a first dance dress.

Often, our brides ask how they can repurpose their bridal qipao after the wedding. That’s why some of our pieces can easily be altered to suit cocktail dinners.

For example, our Zinnia Princess Gown is a modern qipao in a princess cut, with hidden pockets and a removable tulle underlay. After the wedding, the bride can unzip the tulle mesh and shorten the dress so they can wear it on other occasions. With these requests in mind, we are often open-minded about how our clients want to customise their qipaos, and often quite practical in our design process.

Q: What has surprised you most since launching Qipology – whether it’s client feedback, design challenges, or trends?

JL: I never expected so many people to appreciate the qipao. The age range we cater to is incredibly broad – from babies wearing their first traditional outfit to our oldest client, a 93-year-old grandmother who came in looking for a tweed Tang jacket to wear for her granddaughter's wedding. It was truly special to help her find the perfect piece for such a meaningful occasion.

It’s not only the wide age range that surprises me – the diversity of nationalities among our clients does too. I never knew so many foreigners would fall in love with the qipao and Tang jackets. Whether they're attending a wedding, a cultural occasion, or simply appreciate the beauty of traditional Chinese fashion, it's nice to see the qipao resonate with people from all over the world.

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Q: Looking ahead, what’s next for Qipology, and how do you see the qipao evolving in modern fashion?

JL: We get a lot of Southeast Asian clients, so we would like to explore the possibility of opening a pop-up in Singapore. We have also been collaborating with artists and brands every year, so we will want to continue finding interesting brands to collaborate with. This helps us increase our exposure to different clienteles – but also brings excitement to our existing clients. I love collaborations because I learn a lot from each one!

I believe the qipao will continue to be a strong fashion statement, no longer confined to tradition, but there will be more experimentation, not only by adding interesting shapes but also by focusing on different fabrics (potentially tech-enabled fabrics, e.g., incorporating wrinkle-free silk and temperature-regulating blends). I think we will continue to see it being worn more as daily wear.

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